The Rana family, Cindy and I at the top of the Simsa Mata Temple.
Palampur Tea Plantations and Unbelievable Views
We continue our tour of Himachal Pradesh and the Himalayas with a stay in Palampur. It was a fairly short drive from Dharamshala to Palampur but of course a twisting and turning ride through the mountains. When we arrived in Palampur we stopped at a tea plantation and walked through to see the plants. This area is known for it’s green tea which we were able to try at a little stand that sold the tea. You’ll see a photo of Cindy with her purchase and the the lush tea plantation behind here. After that we visited a bridge that crossed the (need name) river. We decided to take a small trek up the hill and were actually on someone’s homestead. We felt like we were trespassing a bit but were able to see a home garden and orchard along with their buffalo. A very lush landscape.
We arrived at our hotel which was a comfortable stay with unbelievable views. We enjoyed a cold beverage in the bar on the top level and then rested some. We walked to a restaurant on a busy road and enjoyed a good meal but didn’t want to walk during the dark so Garmeet found us a ride back to the hotel; an employee of the restaurant that we paid 200 rupees.
Once in Lifetime Homestay
The next day we drove just a short distance but again up the mountainside to a small village called Sansai and to the home of the Rana family. Our driver Garmeet set this up with his friend and fellow driver, Baba who is the father of this household. We arrived to a very warm welcome—hugs from Amma (Grandma Sandhya) and Mata (mother Kanchana) along with the son, Guglu. Later, more hugs from daughter Arpita and cousin Neha. We had tea and then sat down for our first meal, a breakfast of aloo parantha (potatoes inside a flatbread) and curd (yogurt). After, we went trekking along the side of the mountain with Arpita and Guglu. Wow! It was down down down to an old Shiva temple in the woods where there was a fresh spring as well as an old house. The views along the way were hard to describe in terms of impact. We looked across to the Mandi district while we were in the Bhaianath district. (BTW, you’ll see images of the Bhajanath temple in the gallery, as well.) We also saw a goat herder, a cow (of course), a small snake and many other green wonders. This area is the home of leopards but we were told they are lower during the day.
Once we arrived back to the home, we had a small lunch of rice and beans and then cousin Neha, the artist of the family gave us Mahendi or henna tattoos. One thing we did not know about this tradition is that it is done usually only on special occasions like weddings and holidays like Diwali and that typically you put your husbands name somewhere in the design (I put Fiona) and then the stronger the color that surfaces the more your significant other loves you. We are both very loved. You leave the henna on until it dries, then you put mustard oil on to make the color stronger and stay longer. After, you wash it off, then we took showers. The washroom is fit with cold water and more water was heated over the fire so we could have a warm shower. Cindy and I both dressed in our kurtas so we could show them how special they were and to be more festive.
Simsa Mata Temple
We went on a drive again with Amma, Neha, Arpita, Guglu, Garmeet, Cindy and I to even higher on the mountain to a temple that is quite well-known, the Simsa Mata temple. I think in many areas, it seems the temple is built on the highest spot of the area. This was definitely the case here where the temple itself was open air with views that again defy the right words. We have learned to go through the Hindu rituals at the temple. Taking off your shoes before entering, ringing the bell, touching the stair in reverence the God or Mata (usually a God’s wife) of the temple. Simsa is a local God. Mata means mother. When you enter the temple you typically have a alter to that God where you give a specific food to, then eat yourself. This food is called (need name.) Here we also had a red bindi applied to our third eye. (Will look up the tradition of this later.) We sat after and enjoyed a rice pudding that was given to us by the caretaker of the temple. I believe this was a special time at the temple because we are still within the nine days of Navaitra. Jai Mata De was shouted also as we entered and left the temple…a tradition you do when going to the Mata temples. We climbed even further up on a platform, took photos and danced for a reel Neha put on Instagram.
We then headed back to the Rana home where we relaxed a bit then watched the making of our dinner meal. (I will post a video of this on Youtube later) We watched Amma make tandoori roti on the fire. First, she made the dough which is quite simply flour and water, then she was helped by Arpita to make the flat breads, the first one for the cow of the family (a Hindu tradition because of there belief in the sacred cow of Vishnu). After, she took each flat roti and placed on a flat pan on the fire then in the fire to finish each one. Cindy and I both attempted to roll one roti. I felt special as I rolled the one that was started for the cow. The stew that was made was made with potatoes, onions, peppers, spices and a soybean ball that was very much like a meatball. It was made in stages with the potatoes and soybean balls fried first, then the onions, then the spices and peppers. After all was pre-cooked it was all added back to the pot with tomatoes and pressure cooked. As that was being cooked, Neha cut and fried slices of a tumeric leaf stuffed with flour and spices. After all was cooked we sat down to this very special and delicious meal. After, we relaxed then did a little dancing and went to bed after our very memorable day. The next morning we were treated to breakfast and headed off on our way.
One last note: Not many foreigners make it up to this village in the mountains, so all day we were meeting people, treated to cold water, waving to people along the way and meeting people via video apps. We feel like VIPs for sure, just as we have in many other situations with these amazing people of India.
Click on the first image below to see more of our time in Palampur and our homestay in Sansai.
